fishing-18

Most of you know what type pole I am referring to. The long fiberglass type that telescopes out of the handle in 3 to 5 sections. Then telescopes back into the handle for storage. They have only one eye on the end and no reel seat. Virtually a high tech cane pole. Several companies market them and they can be found at your local tackle shop, fishing super store or on the Internet. An example is one marketed by B n M called the Black Widow which, depending on size, is from 10 to 30 dollars. They range in size from about 10 feet to 20 feet. I choose one in the 15 foot range and after modification it turns into a nice sized rig.

You will notice these rods are quite flimsy with not a lot of backbone on the tip. The solution here is to find a larger replacement rod tip. Usually they can be found in kit form at your local tackle shop, fishing super store or searching the Internet. Fuji makes a nice kit that comes with hot melt glue or you can use a stronger epoxy. Pick a tip that is close in size to one you would find on a heavy bass rod. Next cut the end of the telescopic pole down until the larger tip you chose fits nicely and glue it in place. For extra security I add heat shrink tubing or reinforced tape at the junction of the tip and rod. This modification will help stiffen the tip and give the pole more backbone.

For line I like a good braided line in the 40 to 50 pound test range. Braided line has less memory, stretch, abrasion resistance and a stronger size to weight ratio than monofilament. Diameter wise, 20 pound monofilament is roughly equivalent in size to 80 pound braided line. Start with 10 to 12 feet of line and tie it to the pole tip using your favorite knot that you use to tie line to hooks and lures. 10 to 12 feet of line is just a good starting point. You may want more or less depending on where your fishing. Strong line and knots are essential when you hook a fish because there is no time to play. You have to get the fish up and out of the brush as quickly as possible to avoid the fish from tangling your line.

Your lure should consist of one that is virtually snag free. I like a plastic worm, Texas Rigged and usually weightless, with a little twist in it’s tail. Culprit’s Original Worm in 7.5 inch is a good example. Floating frog type lures have worked for me in the past and that is a blast having a bass explode from the water that close. Experimentation with different lures is the key and try anything in which you have confidence.

Approach the submerged tree or brush with as much stealth as possible. If you can, keep the sun in your face to cast you and your boats shadow the opposite direction of the target area. Bass may be a top end predator in the water but they know a bigger predator when they see it. This technique doesn’t just apply to fishing from a boat. I have had considerable luck from the shore on large lakes in small tree filled coves where boats can’t get and small lakes and ponds where boats are not allowed.

Using this technique breaks the monotony of casting and adds an extra advantage in your arsenal of bass tackle. You may even run into a school of big slab crappie that dig what is being presented as a meal to them. Occasionally I catch a nice channel cat. Give it a try. The worst you could do is have some added fun.

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Filed under: Bass Fishing Tips